MEDORA , the southern gateway to Theodore Roosevelt National Park, languished in obscurity until the early 1960s, but has become one of North Dakota's principal attractions, an inoffensively touristy place with enough to keep you busy, and reasonably interested, for most of a day. The biggest noise in town is the Medora Musical (daily 8.30pm; $19-21; tel 1-800/MEDORA-1), a pseudo-Western, super-Americana variety show staged beneath the stars in a vast, modern amphitheater. There is a lot of clogging and yodeling, plenty of accolades to a certain 26th US President, and special guest appearances that range from Chinese chair-stackers to double-jointed Lithuanians. The extravaganza is preceded by a fantastic feed whereby 240 steaks are simultaneously fondued on pitchforks inside giant oil vats (6.30pm; $18). A better idea is to take to the hills on a mountain bike - the Maah Daah Hey Trail dips and curves through spectacular country for 120 miles. Rent from Rough Riders Dakota Cyclery in Medora (tel 701/623-4808). Or if TR has inspired your cowboy within, make for the Dakotah Lodge Guest Ranch to join an authentic cattle drive (reservations strongly recommended; tel 800/508-4897, ). If the $1000 seems a bit much to spend, you can take two-day pack trips ($400) or rent horses by the hour ($20). For accommodation, you can pitch your own tent for $20 and use the facilities or stay in homey, ranch-style rooms ($50-100).

The conservative Theodore Roosevelt Medora Foundation owns and operates most of the town and its attractions, including the quaint and central Rough Rider Hotel (tel 701/623-4444; $75-100), as well as the Medora (tel 701/623-4422; $50-75) and Badlands (tel 701/623-4422; $75-100) motels, both of which have outdoor pools. While these hotels only operate from May to September, the Americinn Motel (tel 701/623-4800 or 1-800/634-3444; $75-100) is open year-round. The Medora Campground (tel 701/623-4435) caters to both tents ($15) and RVs ($24).